After talking with Pat Sharp at Texas Monthly, I know they are pretty thorough when it comes to picking a winner for their BBQ issue. That being said, I was reasonably sure I was in for a treat at Snow’s BBQ in Lexington, ranked #1 in 2008. Above, Ms. Tootsie (the Pit Boss), and her son on the far left. Kerry Bexley (Snow’s owner) is adding moral support (and about to get reprimanded). The gentleman between them is the next door neighbor. He’s in charge of tending the fires early in the A.M.
You’d think a business would be wound a little tightly with a honor like #1 hanging around their necks. Not true with the crew at Snow’s. In fact, I am going to bestow onto them the first annual Austin Food Journal ‘Friendliest Restaurant Award’. Eating Texas BBQ can be an intimidating experience. Many places I have ventured to tend to look you over and shake their head, tagging you as an interloper. Being dragged out back always seemed like a possibility. At Snow’s, I was more concerned about having to dodge a goodbye hug. Besides a sign on their fence declaring victory, I wouldn’t have guessed their accolades. The other places should take a page out of Snow’s book. I was planning my next visit before I got back in the car.
Being friendly is all fine and good, but if the brisket sucks, the whole show is a non-starter. Maybe, this is why the Snow’s crew is so happy, they had nothing to worry about. The meat was excellent. Kerry welded all the pits. The smoker (pictured above) is made of half inch steel pipe. With the second smoker, they can have a hundred briskets going at once. Having that much metal helps keep the smokers at a consistent temperature, around 250. During the Summer, they can keep the temperature within 5 degrees during the whole cooking process.
The meat is cooked with Oak, in a couple stages: open smoked and wrapped in foil. The fires are started and the Brisket goes on around 11pm. It’s tended throughout the night and is finished just in time for the huddled masses at 8am.
We prided ourselves on not being idiots and called ahead to reserve some brisket. And, some pork ribs. And, some sausage. And, some pork steak. And, they told us if we were still hungry we could get a few whole smoked chickens. Good call.
Everything was very moist, which I like for the most part. Many places have brisket that has lost most of it moisture from over smoking. That, I don’t like. As a rule of thumb, if I can sand the paint off my car with it, it’s not for me. Snow’s was very juicy, smoky and looked the part with a charred exterior and hot pink smoke ring. The pork ribs were almost too juicy. I like the condensed flavor of an over-cooked rib (not to say that I didn’t eat over my share). The item that benefited the most from the cooking process was the pork steak. It’s dangerously easy to cook all the moisture out; it was my second favorite thing behind the brisket. The sides (potato salad, pinto beans and coleslaw) I liked for their restraint. They weren’t trying to be fancy with extra flavors. Straight forward. The beans maybe a little too restrained.
Ms. Tootsie is bringing the heat. This place has only been open for six years! Hell, most other places have cord wood older than that. I love it and can’t wait to go back.
Snow’s BBQ : 516 Main Street Lexington, TX : (979) 773-4640 : Saturdays Only! 8am till sold out (noon or before).
I love the way you write! Thanks for sharing your Snow’s experience with me. Sounds like you were as touched by the experience as I was when I went. Nice that they are doing well.
Thank you so much. Snow’s was great, I’m glad you had the same experience. Good people.